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There’s always something new to learn in the world of skin care. And while you can find plenty of valuable insight online—even if you’ve been a beauty enthusiast for as long as you can remember—the drudgery of sifting through contradictory advice on forums or finding a truly trustworthy content creator on social media can be downright exhausting.
Let’s face it: We could all use an expert who’s eternally on call to ask about the amount of hyaluronic acid in our moisturizer, the science behind a trending treatment, or a confusing, buzzword-filled label on a serum. In the absence of that (admittedly delightful) pipe dream, we asked Alison Adams-Woodford—a licensed esthetician and senior education manager of research and communications at PCA SKIN, a professional-grade skin-care company that has been delivering dermatologist-developed formulas and in-office treatments since 1990—to share answers to some questions she gets asked all the time. Along the way, she also debunks a few common skin-care fallacies.
You Don’t Need to Use a Formula with 100 Percent Hyaluronic Acid
As we age, our skin starts to lose its ability to produce moisture naturally, which is why incorporating a moisture-binding ingredient like hyaluronic acid into your skin-care routine is so important. However, you don’t necessarily need a high concentration of the ingredient to give skin the moisture it craves. “A formulation as a whole is really what leads to performance,” says Adams-Woodford. “I had someone say they wanted a product with 100 percent hyaluronic acid, and I had to explain that would be unnecessary and quite unpleasant to use—HA as a raw material is thick and viscous. And very small amounts can bring and hold large amounts of moisture in the skin.”
PCA SKIN’s own Hyaluronic Acid Boosting Serum, for example—in addition to ceramides and niacinamide to help improve skin-barrier function—contains both low-molecular-weight HA (to penetrate deeply) and high-molecular-weight HA (for instant, visible results on the skin’s outer layer) to maximize performance. “This allows the product to not only hydrate the surface of the skin, but also plump and hydrate from within,” Adams-Woodford explains.
The Term ‘Detox’ Can Mean Many Things
When a skin-care product claims to “detoxify” skin, that doesn’t mean it eliminates toxins from the body through the skin or pores—that’s a job for your liver and kidneys. “Some products and treatments are branded as a miracle, but this is not scientifically supported,” says Adams-Woodford.
However, the word doesn’t necessarily indicate a sham, either. “The topical application of charcoal and clay-type masks, for example, can help draw dirt and debris from follicles,” she says. “Other [detoxifying] formulations are designed to protect against damaging particulate matter, pollution, ozone, and UV rays, but do not fully ‘detoxify’ the skin.” One such is PCA SKIN Oxygenating Trio, a professional facial treatment that uses Candida saitoana extract, from a fungus that encourages the skin’s natural detoxification process.
The Right Oxygen Facial Can Be Highly Effective
Delivering oxygen into the skin can help encourage circulation, minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and result in a more rejuvenated complexion overall. But before you book that oxygen facial, make sure it’s one that goes beyond the surface. “Many treatments use devices that spray compressed oxygen over the surface of the skin,” says Adams-Woodford. “Although you may experience a glow afterward, there is little scientific evidence that topically sprayed oxygen enters the skin.” A more effective way to encourage oxygenation is with ingredients that penetrate and are proven to boost circulation and oxygen. In the PCA SKIN Oxygenating Trio treatment, Tropaeolum majus extract, a bioactive ingredient, is used to transport and supply oxygen.
Niacinamide Can Help Manage Redness and Discoloration
If you have sensitive skin, you may have heard that niacinamide can trigger irritation—but that’s likely confusing the ingredient with niacin, a different form of vitamin B3. “It is often thought that using niacinamide will lead to the flushing and redness associated with niacin use,” says Adams-Woodford. “In fact, it is highly effective for evening the complexion by reducing discoloration,” and can “smooth rough texture by improving hydration, supporting the skin barrier, and protecting against environmental aggressors.” Try PCA SKIN’s Vitamin B3 Brightening Serum.
SPF Is the Most Important Protective Ingredient, but Don’t Stop There
A sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher should always be your first line of topical defense against UV rays and other environmental aggressors, but there are other protections that deserve a spot in your skin-care arsenal as well. Adams-Woodford also recommends antioxidants like vitamins C and A (retinol) to help correct and prevent signs of aging and skin damage, as well as ceramides. The latter, found in the Hyaluronic Acid Boosting Serum, “support the skin’s barrier function,” she says. “They help boost our skin’s ability to protect itself and remain hydrated.”